Printable Shop Version
INTERIOR TUBE PART
1) Measure and cut out 26" high X 14" wide rectangle. Leave stickers down one 26" side and across the 14" top.
2) Place your part on a flat surface and: A) turn it so the 26” is across the top and: B) the horizontal bars are on top of the vertical bars. It does not matter which side the 14” stickers are on.
3) Roll up across the 14" width to create a 26" tube.
4) Secure the tubes shape by overlapping two squares or 1" inch on each end and secure with stickers.
5) Cut off the interior tube to create two parts, a lid and a base. The base and the lid both need to have a clean edge on the bottom and stickers on top. Measure from the "clean edge" end of the tube and cut at 22-1/2" + stickers.
You now have two interior column tubes, one 22-1/2" tube with stickers on top and one 3" tube with stickers on top.
1) Measure and cut out a 28-1/2" high" X 16-1/2" wide rectangle with stickers down one 28-1/2" side.
2) The exterior part will be sort of rolled like the interior part only with creases. It will be folded 5 times in the same direction creating 6 flat panels when it's opened back up. In order for all of the stickers and later on "tabs", to be bent in the optimal direction for a strong armature, this part will need to be folded in the opposite direction you would normally fold and the stickers wrapped around in a reverse conection.
A) lay the part on a flat surface. B) Turn the part so the stickers are on top. C) Make sure the vertical bars are on top of the horizontal bars. D) Start at the bottom and fold up 2-1/2" folds 5 times to make 6 panels.
3) Depending on how tight you made your folds there may be extra length on the last panel. Count 5 squares or 2-1/2" from the last crease and cut leaving new stickers on the exterior column part.
4) Unfold the rest of the panels to create the exterior hexagonal column part. Insert the stickers under (from inside the column to the out) the last bar on the opposite end and secure. A "Reverse Conection".
5) The lid and the base have been folded together to get them as well matched as possible so now is the time to touch up the shape by bending and shaping the wire with your hands as you look down the column.
6) Cut the exterior hexagon to create two parts, a lid and a base. Cut off at 24" + stickers leaving the newly cut stickers on the 24" exterior base part. You now have two column parts, one exterior column base, 24" high with stickers on the bottom and one 4" high exterior hexagon lid with no stickers.
TOP CAP LID ASSEMBLY
1) In the 4" hexagon part, cut a 1" wide X 1" high notch out of each of the six top corners (meaning one end only since the top and bottom are the same at this point.) of the exterior hexagon lid.
2) You now have six 1" high X 1-1/2" to 2" wide "tabs", one at the top of each panel. Depending on your earlier folding, some of the 1-1/2" tabs may be 2" (or 4 squares) wide but it will not matter.
3) Be certain all of the sticker connections on the interior tube lid are tightly wrapped on the inside for proper fit of the lamp shade later on.
4) Place the internal tube lid part in the center of the external hexagon lid part.
5) A) Fold the external hexagon lid part tabs down towards the center of the internal lid tube inserting all of the internal lid tube stickers through the outermost squares of each bent down tab. B) Fold one tab and then it’s opposite, this will center the internal tube inside of the external hexagon lid part.
6) Cut out a 3" X 3" square with no stickers.
7) Place the 3" X 3" square on top of the lid. If you carefully position it you should be able to secure it with at least one interior tube sticker on each corner.
Once the square is tightly secured, a rubber mallet can be used to tap and bend the rest of the stickers over.
ARMATURE BASE ASSEMBLY
1) Cut a 1" wide X 1" high notch out of each of the six top corners (the top has no stickers) of the exterior hexagon base.
As with the top cap step #2 there may be tabs of three and tabs of four squares width but it's not important.
2) Cut a 1" wide X 1/2" high (do not include the stickers in the 1/2" high measurement) notch out of each of the six bottom corners of the external hexagon base. (the existing stickers make the notch 1" high).
Again as with the top cap step #2 there may be tabs of three and tabs of four squares width but it's not important.
3) You now have six 1" X 1-1/2" "tabs" on the top and on the bottom (counting the stickers) of the external hexagon base part. Stand the Base part upright on a flat surface with the stickers down.
4) Fold the 1” bottom tabs (the ones with stickers) so the stickers are all pointing to the center and stand the Base part upright on a flat surface.
5) Insert the internal tube base with stickers up inside of the external hexagon base.
6) A) Fold the external hexagon base part tabs down towards the center of the internal base tube inserting the internal base tube's stickers through the outermost squares of the bent down tabs. B) Fold one tab and then it’s opposite, working around until they are all down. This will center the internal tube inside of the external hexagon lid part. Do not bend the stickers yet.
7) Cut out a 3" X 3" square with no stickers.
8) Place the 3" X 3" square on top of the external base, If you position it carefully you should be able to secure each corner with at least one sticker from the internal base tube part. Once the square is well secured, you can bend the rest of the stickers over, A rubber mallet works well for this.
9) Turn the column armature upside-down. Bend the stickers on the bottom of the external base part, using them to secure the interior tube base in place in the center of the external hexagon base part.
ARMATURE PIPE CLIP
1) Cut the center cross out of a 3 X 3 Square.
2) Cut out another bar section above, below, left and right of the center cross.
3) Using needle nose pliers, carefully squeeze each side of the four bar sections you just removed in step 2. Just bend the bars slightly away from the center, they can be bent more later to tightly fit the 3/4“ pipe as it is being installed.
4) Cut off just the welds on each corner and carefully bend the stickers straight up.
5) Cut a 3/4” PVC pipe off at 22” and slide the pipe clip onto the pie 2” with the stickers pointing down the long side of the pipe.
6) Cut a 2” X 2” hole out of the center of the 3” X 3” Armature Base top (not the top cap lid) and slide the long end of the pipe in the square hole centering it as the stickers (gravity) lock it in place.
1) For 1/2" wire shade: 13" X 5-1/2" + stickers on the 5-1/2" side.
For 1" wire shade: 13" X 6" + stickers on the 6" side.
2) For both the 1/2" and 1" turn the cloth so the stickers are up, and be sure the horizontal bars are on top.
3) Roll up to create a tube and secure:
1/2" wire - with a 1" or two square per end overlap.
1" wire - a 1" or one square per end overlap.
4) Measure and cut a 23” X 4” strip of shade “cloth”.
5) Roll the strip tight enough to fit inside the wire shade holder, line-up the bottom of the 4” roll of shade “cloth” with the bottom of the wire shade holder and un-spool it tight against the wire shade holder.
1) Get ready for applying the mortar. Lay out tools and materials. Have a clean bucket of water ready and pack the column top cap lid with wet newspaper.
2) Mix 15 Quarts of mortar.
3) Pile mud around armature base and fill between interior tube and exterior hexagon.
4) Cover entire armature with 1/2” to 3/4” layer of mortar.
5) Clean up base and smooth tops of base column and top cap lid.
6) Brush with water.
7) Roll texture.
8) Paintbrush “spatula” the base of column and top cap lid.
9) Stamp wire lampshade holder into wet mortar of column base and remove.
10) Cover with plastic and cure 24 hours then clean out bottom of base column
1) Keep covered 3 days spraying occasionally.
1) Wait for mortar to dry white.
2) Cover entire project with main colors.
3) Brush or spray on antique paint in small areas at a time wiping off the high spots leaving antique paint in low spots.
INSTALL & WIRE
1) Install your transformer.
2) Run wires to desired light locations.
3) Pound rebar or wood stakes in ground to stabilize column base by pushing against inside walls.
4) Slide wires through base of column and out top.
5) Separate ends of wires about 8”
6) Strip ends 3/4”
7) If using and LED, Adjust socket for LED bulb base by spreading socket tabs farther apart with needle nose pliers.
8) Build wire socket part. 1” X 1/2” hardware cloth, remove center bar and slide onto bottom of socket.
9) Hold the wires tight together and parallel to each other with the ends lined up and twist on a wire nut.
A) For a single light or the end light of a run, hold one side of two wires: One side of the power supply wire in from the house & one side of the socket lead wire.)
B) For a light before the end of a run, hold one side of three wires: One side of the power supply line in from the house, one side of the line out to the rest of the run and one side of the socket lead wire.
10) Screw on wire nut. Tug each wire individually to test the connection before cranking it down super tight and filling it with silicone.
11) Bend one wire nut down being careful not to pry on the wire nut, Push the wire slack back into the PVC pipe and seat your hardware cloth socket part around the socket and on top of the 3/4” PVC pipe.
12) Install bulbs, lampshades and top cap lids.
13) Plug in transformer and turn it on!